A sculptural felt headpiece collection exploring inner focus, surveillance, and human resilience
Tatiana Ashakova, founder and designer of Beretkah, unveils Watchful Eye, a new couture felt collection that examines the fragile balance between self-awareness and constant observation. The series evolved from the hat that was shortlisted by the judges in the international hat contest with Stephen Jones as the main judge at the Muséum du Chapeau in Chazelles-sur-Lyon, France, an experience that inspired Tatiana to expand the concept into a complete body of sculptural work.
Concept & Vision
The major inspiration for Watchful Eye originates from George Orwell’s novel 1984, in which the omnipresent figure of Big Brother symbolizes a society of ceaseless surveillance and diminishing privacy. Ashakova translates this idea into a poetic and visual language, transforming the symbol of the eye into both a guardian and a mirror. The collection invites viewers to reflect on their own “inner eye” — the space of thought, intuition, and moral sight — while confronting the discomfort of being watched in a world where exposure has become ordinary.
The designer explains the creative impulse as a study of how “the visual activates our inner brain,” encouraging a deeper awareness of perception itself. Through Watchful Eye, Tatiana positions seeing not merely as observation, but as a form of awakening — a dialogue between the visible and the psychological.
The Campaign
The campaign for Watchful Eye features Manuela Haber, a graceful, mature model whose presence embodies the perspective of experience and emotional depth — what the creator describes as “the 3D lens of life.” Her image captures the collection’s central message: that maturity sharpens the way we perceive reality and enables us to balance clarity, compassion, and strength.
Guided by Ashakova’s artistic direction, the images explore how a woman transforms — not only in style but in essence — when a hat and garment shape her silhouette and spirit. Each look reveals a different archetype rising to the surface, reflecting the inner landscape that fashion can awaken.
Informed by archetype theory, the campaign expresses a belief that discovering one’s inner identity precedes presenting it to the world. The hat becomes a portal through which character, memory, intuition and strength emerge. As each headpiece alters posture, mood, and gaze, Watchful Eye suggests that self-observation leads naturally to self-expression — and that how we see ourselves determines how we are seen.
This visual narrative reinforces the collection’s central idea: in a world that watches us constantly, our most powerful act is to watch ourselves first, to recognise who we are, and to embody our truth with intention.
Material & Craft
Watchful Eye marks Tatiana’s first felt-based collection. Each headpiece was sculpted on bespoke head blocks handmade by a Siberian artisan, developed specifically for this project. Felt’s dual character — at once pliable and firm — serves as a metaphor for human existence: soft within, protective without. Integrating the sculptural eye motif into this material required entirely new techniques, turning traditional millinery into architectural art.
Immersive Launch
The collection will be unveiled on 13 November in an historic villa in Charlottenburg at King’s David Garden and Villa, Berlin, as part of a live, immersive presentation. Guests will witness the creation of a hat in real time and experience collaborative installations with ceramic artist Elya Yalonetski and designer Julia Makondzo, combining tactile art forms to explore sight, texture, and emotion.
If you are interested in viewing the release, please get in touch info@beretkah.co.uk
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